Showing posts with label Natural hair series. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Natural hair series. Show all posts

Tuesday, July 5, 2011

African Girl with Natural Hair Series: Lessons from the Kink

I did a length check this weekend and here is my current length.
As I was going through my whole afternoon process of washing, conditioning, blowdrying and flat ironing my hair, I realized that growing my hair has taught me so much. My hair is now between arm pit and bra strap length when straightened but it is hard to tell because with the Houston humidity, it shrinks back pretty quickly. Hereare some of the lessons I credit to my hair....

Challenge the status quo: When I first started thinking about cutting off my permed hair, I did not know any adult who had done it. I was in the process of starting my career and I was really worried about how I would be perceived. I had not seen any natural haired beauties in corporate America and I was worried that I was setting myself up to be viewed as a rebel. Natural hair was not even common in my city. The thought persisted and eventually I decided to do it no matter what anyone thought. I was driven by cusriosity about how my natural hair looked. I took the hair plunge and did the big chop and my career has continued to grow. I am still met with a few raised eye brows but as I have grown to accept myself, people accept me as well. 

The majority is not always right: I grew up with a very narrow standard of beauty. They were pushed at me on television, billboards and even by the kind of women that male family members brought home. It seemed to me that the more European your look, the more beautiful you were. Thankfully I was able to reject this notion internally because I had a father who valued me and taught me how to value myself. He taught me that I was beautiful but that there was so much more to life than being consumed by how I looked. Because of those life lessons I learnt to question what the majority said. I am dark skinned woman and in Kenya where I grew up, dark skinned is not considered beautiful obviously the amazing Lupita Nyongo is changing that. This same principle helped me challenge the idea that straight hair is better and that I should go to great lengths to get it. I think people should be free to wear their hair how they want as long as it is not driven by an internal need to fit into the very narrow box defined by the beauty industry. 

The other widely accepted idea I found hard to accept was that black hair does not grow except for the lucky few who have good genes and therefore good hair. I do not think that long hair is more attractive than short hair but I think that every kind of hair can be healthy and long if given the proper care. I was determined to find out if this was true even though I was not of mixed race.  

Sometimes you should go with your gut: My sweet friend Chebet shared her reason for going natural.  She did not want her daughter growing up thinking there was something wrong with her. That resonated deeply with me. As a side note she ended up having two boys and I have two girls. I wondered what we were telling young black girls and I decided I would be one of the women that had hair that looked just like their. I wanted to help them not question if their hair is acceptable. This was a confirmation to the gut feeling I had for a long time that maybe we needed to reverse the message we were passing on to the next generation. I wanted to be part of a new generation that was at home with who we were no matter what everyone else said. Hair goes deeper than the scalp. 

You do not have to know everything to get started: I had no clue how to take care of my hair when I first got started. All I knew is that my hair needed moisture so I washed it all the time. I did not know what products worked for my hair or where I could find help to take care of it. I went to the office many times looking like I had just been electrocuted because my wash and go would stand up straight when dry. I did not even like my hair in the beginning because it was so different from what I was accustomed to but I have come to really love it. We just needed to get acquainted. I have made many mistakes along the way and have had many inches of hair cut off to show for it. I finally got on a stable regimen that works for me. If you are afraid to take the first step because you do not see the full picture, remember you do not have to know everything at first .... you can learn as you go. 

You can find a new set of cheerleaders: I have so many natural sisters to thank for giving me inspiration through their blogs and YouTube channels. Once I got started, I discovered that I was not the only one who was tired of getting perms every two months. I do not know any of these people personally but I have stuck on the journey because of their inspiration. I am surrounded by a great community of friends but none of them shared my passion for natural hair at the time. I gave myself permission to look elsewhere, to people I do not know and who have no idea I even exist. Most of us wait to get started on our goals because we are looking for others who share similar goals or to get approval by those around us. You may never find them in your current circles but if you start looking, you will be surprised by what you might find. 

As I pondered on these lessons I realized that my hair has taught me just as much as being an immigrant. I also realized I can apply the lessons to other areas I want my life to change in the next few years. Maybe we can take the journey together.

Monday, June 27, 2011

African Girl with Natural Hair Series: Say Yes to Indian powders

During my journey growing my natural hair, I have researched cultures that have beautiful hair to learn their ancient practices that keep the hair healthy and beautiful. People have admired indian hair for generations and I have sought to find out their beauty secrets. I love the fact that they use many natural oils and powders. I have adapted the following practices for my hair regimen. 

Amla Powder: 
This powder is made from Indian gooseberry plant. I use it as a cleanser and to make my deep conditioner. It gives nourishment to hair because it is rich in vitamin C, removes dandruff and gives it body. It also stimulates the scalp because it is a natural astringent and prevents infection. You can also use it on the skin to remove grime and prevent acne breakouts. This powder can be bought in indian stores. They also sell the Amla oil but most of the oils contain mineral oil which is not good for the hair. I add Amla powder to coconut milk and a few drops of coconut oil to make a deep conditioner. 





Shikakai powder:
This powder is made from the fruit of the Acacia Concinna tree. I use it as a cleanser and mix it with a conditioner once or twice a month to remove any build up. It is a natural cleansing agent which cleanses hair and the scalp and leaves hair looking shiny and clean. It also promotes growth because it stimulates the scalp and acts as a coolant. Shikakai is drying to my hair so I always follow the wash with a conditioner for a clean silky feeling. I also mix it with amla powder for a less drying effect. 



Saturday, June 25, 2011

African Girl with Natural Hair Series: My Regimen

I wash twice a week or every 3-4 days with any moisturizing conditioner...I use suave and Herbal Essences Hello Hydration which I love. I do not use shampoo. 

I do a deep condition weekly or biweekly depending on how busy I am and just rinse it off with water. Sometimes I use a store bought deep conditioner or just mix coconut milk with amla and any other natural oils I may have. 

Every couple of weeks, I mix some indian powders-amla/shikakai to wash the hair thoroughly. If I still have product build up in my hair, I rinse it with apple cider vinegar. 

I do a protein conditioner once or every two months just depending on how my hair feels. If my hair starts breaking, then I know it is time for a protein conditioner. I also use Henna from time to time. 

After I wash my hair, I apply a moisturizer which is either store bought such as Shea butter or a home mixture of cooking olive oil or coconut oil and seal it with castor oil. If I want to style my hair then I use Carol's daughter hair milk and if it is a curly hairstyle, I use a water based moisturizer Fantasia IC Pure Tea Silk Moisturizer. I regularly spritz my hair with a mixture of water, coconut oil and glycerin. I stick with low manipulation styles and use fingers to style my hair. 
Some products I avoid are 
  • Any products containing alcohol because they are drying to hair
  • Any products with petroleum and mineral oil because it coats the hair and keeps out moisture
  • Any products with sodium and ammonium laurel sulfate which is why I do not use most shampoos
  • Any products with parabens
I would love to hear what works for you. 

Sunday, April 24, 2011

8 Myths about Black Natural Hair

1. Black should not be washed often.

I grew up believing that you do not need to wash black hair very often. However I have learned that when my hair is dry, it breaks easily. Water is the best moisturizer for natural hair which needs to be washed often to remove buildup of oils and dust. I wash my hair once a week when I am wearing a protective style and twice a week when I am wearing it out. I also do a protein treatment monthly to keep it strong and reduces breakage.

2. You should oil your scalp often.

I have learned that it is important to allow your scalp to breath. I have not oiled my scalp in years and have had a flake of dandruff. The scalp needs to be kept clean and allowed to breath. Regular scalp massages are also good for hair growth. Oil is great to seal in the moisture in your hair and should be applied to the ends of the hair after spraying water or a moisturizing spritz.

3. You need to trim your hair every six weeks.

The only reason to trim your hair is to style it or to remove damaged ends. If you keep your ends well moisturized, they will stay healthy and you will not have to keep trimming your length. If your hair is damaged then trim and work at preventing future damage by paying special attention to your ends when moisturizing and avoiding heat damage by using heat protectants. You only trim your ends when you notice damage on your hair.

4. Some people have good hair.

This is one of my worst pet peeves. Hair health depends on how well you take care of it. There has not been much research done on hair care products for natural black hair which is why most of us do not have a clue on how to make it look its best. Even very thick natural black hair can look just as beautiful as straight hair if you take care of it and change your perception of beauty. This is so important for black parents because this belief will probably be translated to your children and they will grow up believing there is something wrong with their hair. Once you learn how to take care of their hair and yours, the texture and styling options may surprise you. I do not think that people need to stop straightening their hair but I think we all need to seriously think about what we believe about own hair and what is beautiful.

5. Black hair does not grow.

I am determined to dispel this myth. If our hair does not grow, then we would not need a retouch every 6-8 weeks. Black hair grows but breaks off easily because most of what we do to our hair is drying. That is the reason why most women can get to shoulder length and them seem to get stuck there. If you use protective styling, keep your hair moisturized, drink water and eat a health diet, your  hair will grow unless you have an illness.

6. Natural hair is hard to manage.

The reason permed hair seems easier to manage is because there are so many products and salons that can style permed hair. The options are fewer for natural hair though it is getting better. The most important thing is to understand that you cannot take care of natural hair the same way you did your permed hair. There has to be a willingness to getting to know your hair and learn how to take care of it. Most of us just do not know our hair very well or give up too easily.

7. You cannot comb black natural hair.

You will not be able to get a comb through your natural hair the same way as you did your straight hair. The question to ask is, do you need to comb your hair as often as you did when wearing permed hair. The biggest thing to to learn when to comb your hair. All kinds of hairs tangles and you have to learn how to detangle and when and where to do it. I have found that wet hair is much easier to manipulate than dry hair. If I am wearing my hair in a style that needs combing (which I rarely do) I spray my hair with a spritz and then comb my hair. However I have learnt to wear low manipulation styles that I can easily finger style.

8. If I went natural, I would have to lock my hair.

There are beautiful lock styles out there but if you are like me and enjoy changing your hair style, then you may want more options. This YouTube video is a testament to just how many ways you can style your natural hair.

If you are thinking of trying a natural look, there are many resources out there to help you.  Start by buying a good moisturizer or make your own with water, oil, glycerin and honey, get a sulphate free shampoo and good leave-in conditioner. I will do a post next week on making the home-made moisturizer and reviews on other great products for our hair.

Wednesday, April 20, 2011

African Girl with Natural Hair Series:The Journey

I have had natural hair since June, 2006. It has been one of the most interesting journeys I have ever taken. It has come with some surprising discoveries about myself and a whole lots of lessons about hair.

 I decided to cut my hair because I was very curious about my natural hair. My hair was permed since I was 14 years old and I did not remember what my real texture hair felt or looked like. Before I went natural, I did not spend a lot of time thinking about how I would look or how people would react, I just knew it was something I wanted to do. For the first two years I had no idea how to take care of my hair.


Unfortunately I did not document my hair journey very well but I will try to share some pictures though some of them are not very good. Here is my only picture after I did the big chop. It is very blurry because it is a low resolution picture. I loved this look because it was so easy to take care of. I washed my hair everyday and put a leave-in moisturizer from time to time.

This was the next picture I could find. It probably took 6-8 months to grow my hair to this length. I still had no clue on what to do and the products I needed to take care of it. Water was still my best friend partly in part because I enjoy washing my hair and it was such a treat that I could wash and wear it.





These two pictures are my attempts of styling my hair. I had been growing my hair for about two and a half years and had learnt a lot more about taking care of it. One is my version of a banded afro and the other is a twist out.


This style is was my fist attempt to wear a natural style for a formal event. I loved this hair do an it convinced me that I could wear my natural hair for any occasion. It was a flat twist and single double strand twist style done by Tonya at Uncle Funky's daughter. If you are ever in Houston, Texas and need natural hair styling; it is the place to go. They have since created some great natural hair products that can be purchased on their website.

I will write a series of posts about what I have learnt from growing out my natural hair but here are some of the things I have learnt.
  • Black hair can definitely grow. You do not have to be mixed to grow long hair. 
  • Moisturize, moisturize, moisturize! I cannot say this enough. Our hair is dry and needs moisture to stop it from breaking. I started out by mixing water with cooking oils in my kitchen such as olive oil or coconut oil. 
  • As you take care of your hair, you may be surprised by seeing what you may consider a texture change. It is just the way your hair is responding to the care you are giving it. 
  • Some products are not good for our hair such as mineral oil and petroleum. They coat the hair and make it hard to moisturize
  • Protective styling helps give your hair a break. 

This was my hair in December of 2009. I will post some more recent pictures in the upcoming blog posts. I hope the pictures that I have posted so far will encourage you to take the step if you are thinking about it. The following resources were invaluable to me on my journey
http://www.naturalhairrules.com/
http://www.afrobella.com/
http://bglhonline.com/ which used to be http://blackgirllonghair.blogspot.com/
http://www.youtube.com/user/kimmaytube
http://www.youtube.com/user/Longhairdontcare2011